Parmigiani

Parmigiani
Take me to the Parmigiani blog!

Tuesday, March 8, 2011

H. Moser Perpetual 1: Most uncluttered perpetual calendar

H. Moser is an interesting company, recently exploded into the scene with some very innovative watches. Featured here is the perpetual calendar.

In many calendars, the dial is usually so complicated, it is hard to read the time, and even harder to read the calendar indications. Not so with the Moser. This roundabout thinking has resulted in a very clean dial...



A power reserve indicator, a large date, subsidiary seconds hands seem to be the only indications on the dial...until, you notice the small hand from the center, shaped like an arrow:



Simple but ingenious! Use the 12 hour markers also to indicate the month.

The rest of the indicators are only useful for setting the calendar...and only one is essential, namely the leap year indicator. This is displayed at the back, on the movement side. This is a set and forget type indicator, but absolutely critical for the watch to know the leap years and adjust the date accordingly.



All the other indicators, like day of the week, month, moonphase which are typical in a perpetual calendar are dispensed with.

The movemeent itself is beautifully finished. Excellent anglage, well polished and gleaming. The double fausse cotes are well executed, very nice and even. The gold chatons simply beam at the viewer, and the steel screws holding the chatons contrast beautifully. The jewels themselves are large, well formed and crystal clear in its intense ruby red hue.

The escapement holds another innovation. The entire escapement can be removed in the field. This is to allow the entire escapement to be replaced in the event of adjustment and regulation issues. And all adjustment and regulation work to be done in the factory.

The case is brilliantly designed, smooth curves. Even the rear glass is curved for a more comfortable fit on the wrist:



The watch is available in platinum, rose gold and white gold:



Quite a handsome watch.

Post a Comment