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Friday, January 11, 2013

UN Perpetual Ludwig: oldie but goodie

Ulysse Nardin is an old, interesting watchmaker who have, over the years come up with interesting, albeit sometimes quirky innovations to horology. Today's feature: The UN Perpetual Ludwig has all the innovation, but IMHO, none of the quirkiness.

Conceived by Ludwig Oeschlin for the late Rolf Schnyder, who was then owner of Ulysse Nardin, this watch is a landmark for a perpetual calendar.

It allows all the indicators to be adjusted via the single crown. And allows the date and other perpetual indicators to be ajdusted bi-directionally. When it was premiered, this was a great innovation. Today, a few other perpetual calendars offer this feature, amongst them the Lange 1 Perpetual Calender Tourbillon and the Moser Perpetual 1, both of which I have featured on this blog.

The dial is magnificent, uncluttered in its layout, supreme legibility, with outsided date.

I just love the bark like finish. Rolf tells that the dial is so difficult to make perfect, that the reject rate is incredibly high. Later Perpetual Ludwigs have done away with this beautiful textured dial. Later examples added a GMT feature.

The movement is based on the ubiquitious ETA 2892. Ludwig says this is a reliable, powerful movement, and has the torque to pile complications on top without affecting the reliability and running accuracy. The UN Trilogy with astronomical complications is also based on the same base caliber.

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